Sportswear Fabrics & GSM Reference

Every fabric family in one table

The table below covers every standard fabric family ZipaSports runs in Sialkot, Pakistan, with the composition, weight range and finish for each garment group. These are option ranges, not fixed specifications: within each family a buyer chooses the exact composition and GSM, and production is set up to match it.

What GSM means

GSM stands for grams per square metre: the weight of one square metre of fabric. A 160 GSM football jersey uses fabric where a one-metre square weighs 160 grams; a 300 GSM legging fabric weighs almost twice as much over the same area. Factories measure it by punching a standard-size circle from the fabric and weighing it.

Higher GSM is not a quality score. It simply means a heavier, denser cloth. A 350 GSM fleece hoodie and a 140 GSM mesh jersey can both be correctly specified; a jersey at hoodie weight would be unwearable on a pitch. Some garments, gi trousers among them, are quoted in ounces per square yard instead: 1 oz/yd² is roughly 33.9 GSM, so an 8-12 oz trouser fabric is about 270-405 GSM.

When comparing supplier quotes, always compare GSM alongside composition. Two "polyester jerseys" at different prices are often different weights of cloth, and the GSM figure is the quickest way to see it.

Moisture-wicking, explained

Moisture-wicking fabric moves sweat off the skin to the outer face of the cloth, where it spreads out and evaporates. It works because polyester fibre absorbs very little water, under 1% of its own weight, while cotton absorbs around 7-8%. Sweat on polyester stays on the fibre surface and travels along the channels between yarns by capillary action instead of soaking in.

A wicking finish applied at the mill improves this spreading effect, which is why jersey specifications read "polyester interlock, moisture-wicking finish" rather than naming a separate fibre. The practical result: a wicking polyester jersey feels drier and lighter during play, while a cotton shirt of the same weight holds sweat and clings.

This is also why almost every fabric in the table above is polyester- or nylon-based. Cotton appears only where its softness or tradition matters, in piqué polos, fleece hoodies and gi fabric.

4-way stretch and elastane content

4-way stretch fabric stretches and recovers in both directions, along the length and across the width, because elastane (also sold as spandex or Lycra) is knitted in with the main fibre. 2-way stretch fabric gives in one direction only. Leggings, compression wear, sports bras, rash guards and dance costumes all need 4-way stretch to move with the body and snap back to shape.

The elastane percentage sets how much stretch and recovery the fabric has. ZipaSports specifies 12-20% elastane for leggings and compression garments, blended with nylon or polyester at 240-300 GSM. That weight range is what makes a legging squat-proof: at 240 GSM and above, the knit stays opaque when stretched over the body, where a lighter fabric would turn sheer.

Nylon-elastane blends feel softer against the skin; polyester-elastane blends take sublimation printing. The choice between them is usually decided by whether the design needs an all-over print.

Pearl weave and gi fabrics

Pearl weave is a tight cotton or poly-cotton weave whose surface shows small rounded knots, like rows of pearls. It is the standard modern gi jacket fabric because it gives high tear resistance for its weight and dries faster than the traditional heavier weaves. Single weave is a lighter, simpler alternative used for entry-level and hot-climate gis.

Gi jackets run 350-550 GSM, several times heavier than a sports jersey, because the jacket must survive constant gripping and pulling. Trousers are cut from 8-12 oz cotton ripstop or twill rather than the jacket weave, trading a little abrasion resistance for mobility. The full breakdown, including how the weaves compare, is in our BJJ gi fabric guide.

How to choose a fabric

Start from the garment and its use, not from the fabric name. The decision usually comes down to four questions.

• How will it be decorated? All-over sublimation needs polyester; embroidery and screen printing work on cotton blends. See sublimation vs screen printing.
• How hard is it worn? Grappling and motocross need the heavy end of each range plus reinforcement; a summer training jersey can sit at the light end.
• What climate? Hot-weather teams order 140-160 GSM mesh jerseys; cold-weather clubs add 280-350 GSM fleece layers.
• Does it stretch? Anything body-tight needs 4-way stretch with a stated elastane percentage.

If you are unsure, send the garment list and use case and the factory will propose compositions and GSM for each item. ZipaSports supplies a free digital design mockup within 24 hours; a physical sample takes 5-7 days, is charged at sample cost, and the cost is credited against your bulk order. Minimum order is 20-25 pieces per design, lower quantities are possible on request, and there is no MOQ limit for sportswear brands and companies.